Gucci men’s fall 2024

Sabato De Sarno insists he feels free to follow his own heart in shaping Gucci’s new direction – whatever opinion critics may have – and he believes many are “crying for novelty while at the same time wary of big changes,” he said during a preview with WWD.

His confidence in his personal vision was reflected in his first men’s collection shown in Milan on Friday, which was aptly called ‘mirroring’ – as he reiterated his passion for words and artists who use words. This particular version was chosen because the men’s collection mirrored his first women’s collection for Gucci shown last September, “in a continuation and confirmation” of his previous choices, he said. The collections “are thought of together”, but mixed shows are currently not an option. “I love dedicated moments for everyone” and choosing to launch many new faces on the catwalk, in “life-changing opportunities for the models”, said the designer.

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The soundtrack and lighting at the location – although different from September – also contributed to this sense of mirroring with ‘Late night feel’ featuring Lykke Li and Mina’s ‘Ancora, ancora, ancora’, both arranged by Mark Ronson, with the addition of ‘masculinity’, by the French artist Lucky Love.

Examples of the continuum favored by De Sarno were jeans worn under crystal-embroidered knits, and the luxurious leather jackets worn by women over minis and by men over short shorts, or the reptilian car coats. Where women wore platform loafers, his men wore sturdy creepers.

The embroidery motifs from Gucci’s 1950s clutches that inspired crystal-covered baby doll dresses were echoed for men in artisanal, intricately crafted tank tops. Ditto for the fringed jackets – after all, De Sarno likes to think of the Gucci man as ‘irreverent’. Carabiners completed the looks on trenches that grazed the floor or on silk scarves. But there was no trace of punk nostalgia, as this collection was mainly about sleek and luxurious designs, exemplified by the tailoring suits in two silhouettes, slim and fitted, paired with cropped trousers, occasionally with zippered side slits, or more relaxed and softer .

The devil is in the details, as double-breasted buttons were hidden in the refined wool suits with intarsia-trimmed lapels in the same colors as the shirts worn underneath.

Taking into account the brand’s key accessories, the Sarno offered a plethora of Jackie bags, including in super-large sizes, as well as the totes and backpacks, the latter being a personal favorite of the designer.

He introduced a new faded GG monogram, slightly offset with a drop shadow to create a sense of 3D dimension, displayed in an allover motif on suits, slim scarves and bags in the new deep Rosso Ancora house color, brown or gray .

The Marina Chain jewelry from the late 1960s, captured by photographer David Sims in Daria Werbowy’s preview last summer, was presented in silver – a strong statement necklace for men too.

The red and green Gucci stripes peeked out from a slit at the back of a pea coat that was directly inspired by a photo of Robert Redford on De Sarno’s mood board, most likely from the 1975 film ‘Three Days of the Condor’ – it was cool then and remains a must-have today.

De Sarno confessed his aversion to cryptic messages and conceptualizing clothing. “It’s important to have a point of view, but everyone should be able to understand it,” he said.

With this collection he stuck to his words. So far, his message has resonated with his new high-profile friends, from Julia Garner to Taylor Swift, both of whom wore eye-catching designs to the Golden Globes. Within his mandate, De Sarno aims to further elevate the luxury component of the collections to a higher level and he seems to be succeeding in this, responding to a customer who increasingly demands timeless and high-quality artisanal products.

He certainly ticks all the boxes, with dad cardigans adorned with crystals, extra-long coats and tailored suits, so it will be interesting to see how his message translates into sales.

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Launch Gallery: Gucci Men’s Fall 2024

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